2022–2026 Ford Maverick inspection checklist

Take this with you when you look at a used truck. Tick items off on your phone or print it out. Everything before the last section needs only a flashlight, a magnet and a code reader; the last section is for a mechanic. Anything you're unsure about is worth asking a mechanic.

Ticks are saved on this device. The printout has space to write the truck and its VIN.

What to bring

A bright flashlightFor looking under the truck and into the engine bay.
A small magnetIt won't stick to body filler, so it finds hidden rust or crash repairs.
Paper towels or a ragTo check fluid colors on the dipsticks.
A cheap OBD-II code reader (1996 and newer)Reads engine trouble codes and whether the emissions monitors are "ready". It can't show codes that were erased, and a basic reader usually can't see transmission, ABS or airbag codes.
Something to lie on, and clothes you can get dirty
A friend, if you canThey can watch for smoke and leaks while you drive or rev the engine.

Paperwork and history

The VIN on the dash, the driver's door sticker and the title all match
The title is clean and in the seller's nameWatch for salvage, rebuilt, flood or lien notes.
Open recalls checked at nhtsa.gov/recalls using the VINUnfixed recalls are free to repair at a dealer, but you'll want to know.
A vehicle history report reviewedLook for accidents, odometer issues and how many owners.
Service records, especially oil changes and transmission service
You've asked how the truck was used: towing, plowing, off-road or commutingHeavy towing and plowing wear out transmissions, brakes and front ends faster.

Known problems on the 2022–2026

From our owner notes on this generation. Ask about each one, and look for the signs on the test drive. Details: knowyourtruck.com/ford/maverick/generations/2022-2026

Front lower ball joints may separate (do not drive)Signs: Often none before it fails. If a ball joint separates while driving, the front wheel can lose its connection to the control arm and you can lose steering control.
Dead 12-volt batterySigns: The truck won't start or turn on, often after sitting a few days, even though the hybrid battery is fine.
Loses power with "Stop Safely Now" (hybrid)Signs: The truck suddenly loses drive power while driving and shows a "Stop Safely Now" warning.
Engine compartment fire risk after engine failure (2022–2023 hybrid)Signs: Usually none until the engine fails; oil and fuel vapor can then reach hot parts.
Tail lights or turn signals stop workingSigns: One or both tail lights go out, or a burned-out turn signal doesn't make the blinker flash faster to warn you.

Walkaround and body

Panel gaps are even and paint color matches on every panelUneven gaps or mismatched paint point to crash repair.
Magnet sticks on the lower doors, rocker panels, wheel arches and bed sides
Cab corners, rocker panels and bed floor checked for rust or bubbling paint
Tires worn evenly, with matching brandsWorn inside or outside edges mean alignment or front-end problems.
Tire date codes checked (the last 4 digits are week and year)There's no legal age limit, but many vehicle and tire makers recommend replacing tires around 6 to 10 years old, even with good tread. Look for cracks in the sidewalls too.
Hitch receiver and bed checked for heavy towing wear or a gooseneck/5th-wheel hitchA sign the truck has worked hard. That's not bad, but it should be priced in.
Paint overspray on rubber seals, trim or under the hood, and wrench marks on the bolts that hold the fenders, hood and doorsSigns of body repair after a crash. Ask what happened.
All lights work, including the brake lights and trailer plug

Frame and underneath

Use the flashlight. Rust is the one problem that can make a truck not worth fixing.

Frame rails checked end to end for flaking, holes or soft spotsSurface rust is normal. Scaling, holes or rot are not. Tap suspicious spots with a screwdriver handle.
No welding, patches or fresh undercoating hiding the frameFresh undercoating on an older truck can be covering rust.
Frame isn't bent or kinked, especially behind the cab and at the hitch
Spring hangers, shackles and crossmembers are solid
No leaks dripping from the engine, transmission, transfer case or axles
Exhaust intact with no heavy rust or missing partsOn diesels, ask whether emissions parts were removed. That can be illegal and cause inspection problems.

Engine (start it cold)

Ask the seller not to start the truck before you arrive. A cold start shows problems that a warm engine hides. Feel the hood when you get there.

Engine starts easily with no long cranking
No knocking, ticking or loud rattles at startup or idle
Exhaust smoke is light and clears quicklyLasting blue smoke means burning oil, white means coolant or unburned fuel, and heavy black means a rich mixture or injector trouble.
No warning lights stay on after startup, including check engine
Code reader shows no stored or pending codes, and the monitors are "ready"Monitors that aren't ready can mean codes were just cleared to hide a problem, or simply that the battery was recently disconnected. No codes doesn't mean no problems: a basic reader only sees part of the truck.
Oil on the dipstick is not milky, sludgy or grittyMilky oil can mean coolant is mixing with the oil.
Coolant is at the right level with no oil film or rusty color
Belts and hoses aren't cracked, and there are no fresh leaks around the engine

Diesel trucks

With the engine warm and idling, the oil filler opening shows only light, steady vaporHeavy puffing, pulsing or smoke ("blow-by") can mean worn rings or pistons. Some vapor is normal on any diesel and this quick check is rough, so a mechanic should measure it on a truck you're serious about. Keep hands and the cap clear of the belts and fan.
Engine idles smoothly with no misses or rough runningRough idle can point to injector problems, which are expensive on many diesels.
No fuel or oil around the injectors or turbo
Turbo spools up smoothly with no abnormal whistling, grinding or smoke under acceleration
On 2008 and newer: no exhaust or DEF warnings, and you've asked about DPF cleaning historyEmissions systems (DPF, EGR, DEF) are a common costly repair on modern diesels.
You know whether the engine is stock, tuned or "deleted"Tuning and emissions deletes can void warranties, fail inspections and may be illegal where you live.

Transmission, transfer case and axles

If the transmission has a dipstick: the fluid doesn't smell burnt and has no grit or metal flakesNew fluid is usually red and darkens with age, so color alone isn't proof of a problem. Check it the way the owner's manual says (usually warm, engine running). Many newer trucks have no dipstick; leave those to a mechanic.
Shifts into drive and reverse without a hard clunk or long delay
4WD engages in 4-high and 4-low, and the dash light comes onTest part-time 4WD on gravel or dirt, not dry pavement, where it binds. If the truck has an "Auto" 4WD mode, that one is fine on pavement.
No grinding or clunking when 4WD engages or disengages
Manual: the clutch engages smoothly and doesn't slip under load
U-joints and driveshafts have no play when you twist them by hand (engine off)

Suspension and steering

Heavy-duty trucks with solid front axles can develop a violent front-end shake after hitting bumps ("death wobble"). The usual causes are worn steering and suspension parts.

Truck sits level side to side and front to back
With the engine running, little free play when you rock the steering wheel back and forth
Have a friend rock the wheel while you watch the track bar, tie rods and ball joints for movementWatch from beside the truck. Never crawl under a truck that's running or held up only by a jack.
Shocks aren't leaking, and the truck doesn't keep bouncing after you push down on a corner
Leaf springs aren't cracked, sagging or missing leaves
Steering box and power steering lines aren't leaking

Brakes and brake lines

Steel brake lines along the frame aren't heavily rusted or swollenRusted lines can burst without warning. This is common on older trucks in salt states.
Rubber brake hoses at each wheel aren't cracked or bulging
Rotors aren't deeply grooved, and there's pad material left
Brake fluid is clear to amber, not dark brown
Parking brake holds the truck on a slope

Lifted or modified trucks

A well-done lift is fine. A cheap or poorly installed one causes handling problems, wears parts fast, and can be unsafe.

You know the lift brand and who installed it, and there's a receiptKnown brands and shop installs are a good sign. "My buddy did it" deserves a closer look.
It's a real suspension lift, or you know it's only spacers or blocksSpacers and tall rear blocks are cheaper and can affect handling and axle wrap.
Track bar and steering geometry were corrected for the lift (drop brackets or an adjustable track bar)Skipping this is a common cause of wandering steering and death wobble.
Brake lines are long enough at full droop and aren't stretched or kinkedLifts often need longer brake lines.
Driveshaft angles look reasonable, with no vibration on the test drive
Larger tires: the speedometer was recalibrated and the gearing suits the tire size
No cut or hacked wiring from aftermarket lights, winches or electronics

Inside the cab

No musty smell, damp carpet or water linesSigns of leaks or flood damage.
Heat, A/C, windows, locks, mirrors and 4WD switches all work
Seat and pedal wear matches the mileage
All dash gauges work, including the trans temp gauge if it has one

Test drive

Drive at least 20 minutes if you can, on city streets, a highway and a rough road.

Accelerates smoothly with no hesitation, surging or excessive smoke
Transmission shifts smoothly up and down, with no slipping or flaring RPM
Drives straight on the highway and the steering wheel is centered
No shake or vibration at highway speed or after bumpsShaking after a bump can be the start of death wobble.
Brakes stop straight with no pulling, grinding or pulsing pedal
No clunks over bumps or when turning sharply
No whining or humming that changes with speedCan mean worn axle bearings or gears.
Engine temperature stays steady

After the drive

Look underneath again for new drips
Check for warning lights or new codes with the reader
For a truck you're serious about, get a pre-purchase inspection from an independent mechanicIt's the best money you'll spend on a used truck. Pick a diesel shop for a diesel, and ask them to cover the list below.

Leave to a mechanic

These need a lift, special tools or experience. They're what a good pre-purchase inspection covers.

Every computer module scanned with a professional scan tool (engine, transmission, ABS, airbags, 4WD)
Frame, brake lines, fuel lines and suspension inspected on a lift
Ball joints, wheel bearings and U-joints checked with the wheels off the ground
Cooling system pressure testedFinds small leaks a quick look misses.
Transmission fluid level and condition checked on trucks without a dipstick
Engine compression or leak-down test, and on diesels a measured blow-by test
Diesels: injector balance rates read with a scan tool, and the fuel checked for water or debris

This checklist is general guidance to help you spot common problems. It doesn't replace an inspection by a qualified mechanic.